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The birthstone for September is blue sapphire. It has been a popular gemstone since the Middle Ages and, according to folklore, will protect your loved ones from envy and harm. Medieval clergy wore sapphires to symbolize heaven, while commoners thought that the gem attracted heavenly blessings. Blue sapphires range from very light to very dark greenish or violetish blue, as well as shades of pure blue. The most prized colours are a medium to medium-dark blue or slightly violetish-blue. Sapphire is a variety of the gem species corundum and occurs in all clours of the rainbow. However, the red variety of corundum is known as ruby. Corundum ranks # 9 on the Mohs hardness scale (0-10) and as such is very durable. Only diamond at #10 is harder. Sapphires are found in many countries. The finest ones have historically been found in Kashmir. Today that source has been virtually depleted; Sri Lanka (Ceylon)is known today to be the source of some of the finest qualities available. Lady Diana was given a beautiful sapphire diamond ring for her betrothal.
August has traditionally had two birthstones: Peridot and Sardonyx. The former has been predominant in modern times; the latter not so much.
Peridot has had numerous magical powers and healing characteristics ascribed to it. Presumably, it will protect against nightmares and bring its owner power, influence, and good fortune. Peridot is a gemstone formed deep within the earth, often being brought to the surface with volcanoes. One country of origin has been Hawaii where peridot symbolizes the tears of Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes. Today, most peridot comes from Arizona, China, Myanmar, and Pakistan. This lovely gemstone comes in several colour variations ranging from yellowish green to brown; most consumers however are attracted to the bright lime greens and olive greens.
Sardonyx is a form of onyx and is recognized by its layers of reddish brown and white banding. It was popular with the ancient Greeks and Romans who carried into battle talismans of sardonyx engraved with images of heroes such as Mars or Hercules, believing that this would bring courage and victory. Sardonyx has also been used to fashion cameos (carved raised figures) and intaglios (the reverse of cameos). It has been sourced in many countries including India, Czechoslovakia, Brazil, Uruguay, Germany, and the United States.
Giving a ruby to celebrate a July birthday is a wonderful way to express your love. The 17th century poet, Robert Herrick, made allusion to both passion and the gem’s colour when he wrote:
“Some asked me where the rubies grew,
And nothing I did say;
But with my finger pointed to
The lips of Julia.”
Rubies are said to arouse the senses, stir the imagination, and guarantee health, wisdom, wealth, and success in love. Ruby is a variety of the gem species corundum. It is harder than any natural gemstone except diamond (sapphire is also a variety of corundum, and therefore has the same hardness as ruby). Fine-quality ruby is extremely rare, and its colour is most important to its value. The most prized colour is a medium or medium-dark, vivid red, sometimes referred to as “pigeon blood”.
Rubies are mentioned in the Bible. Job remarks that “the price of wisdom is above rubies”. It was also chosen to represent one of the twelve tribes of Israel during the Exodus. Sources for rubies include Thailand, Burma (Myanmar), Cambodia, Kenya, India, and several other countries.
Helen Keller, is the celebrated blind writer and teacher. Never having seen a pearl, she nevertheless wrote the following:
“Once in a dream I held in my hand a pearl. I have no memory – vision of a real pearl. The one I saw in my dream must, therefore, have been a creation of my imagination. It was a smooth exquisitely molded crystal. I gazed into its shimmering depths; my soul was flooded with an ecstasy of tenderness. I was filled with wonder, as one who should for the first time look into the cool, sweet heart of a rose. My pearl was dew and fire, the velvety green of moss, the soft whiteness of lilies, and the distilled hues and sweetness of a thousand roses. It seemed to me the soul of beauty was dissolved in its crystal.”
What an amazingly sensitive and detailed description of a pearl seen through the “eyes” of this famous and thought-provoking blind woman. This passage most certainly reinforces the notion that a pearl evokes a sense of beauty inside and out.
Our company attends at least seven trade shows every year. This year, they include Dallas, Washington, Las Vegas, Toronto, Atlanta, Bangkok, and Hong Kong. It’s our way of staying abreast of industry trends and, finding items which you may not find anywhere else. It’s also our way of staying on top of prices and making sure that we are buying very competetively.
Our latest foray was to the JCK jewellery show in Las Vegas. For those of you who have not been to Vegas in June, let me just say that you don’t spend much time outside as the temperatures hit 108 F on most days. Even the nights barely cool down. The show has become the largest jewellery show in North America (exceeded only by the Hong Kong jewellery show), and is always an eye -opener. One of our staff who had never attended before, was quite taken by the week’s spectacle; in particular a 60 carat intense vivid yellow radiant cut diamond, available for a mere seven million dollars (US). Needless to say, we admired it but unfortunately the combined limits on our credit cards was somewhat shy of their asking price. However, we did see many beautiful items and have placed orders for some very exciting pieces which will begin to arrive within the next few months. One highlight was a 4.00ct Asscher-cut diamond, already arrived and available for an exceptionally good price.
Next major shows will be in September, when I’ll be attending the Bangkok and Hong Kong shows. Washington, Atlanta, and Toronto also still to come. Who said that the jewellery industry is boring or lacklustre? It’s a wonderful, global endeavour whose primary purpose is to make people happy!!
When in Vegas, it’s hard to ignore the many shows available. This time we took in Jersey Boys and Viva Elvis. My opinion only but I’d be happy to see Jersey Boys again; reluctant to see Elvis again. Good dining options are too many to mention although, when working the trade show, the food leaves much to be desired. We did enjoy a wonderful meal at Maggiano’s as well as at a Wolfgang Puck restaurant at the Venetian.
June is an interesting month when it comes to birthstones, as there are several designated gemstones for this month. Historically, there are at least three designations although, in latter years, there have been some attempts to add to the list. Pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone, are the three original gems but lately, there have been attempts by some suppliers to add smokey quartz and green tourmaline. For today we will stick to the first three.
Pearls have been used as adornment for centuries. They were one of the favourite gem materials of the Roman Empire; later in Tudor England, the 1500’s became known as the “pearl age”. Pearls are unique as they are the onlygems from living sea creatures and require no faceting or polishing to reveal their natural beauty. In the early 1900’s, the first successful commercial culturing of round saltwater pearls began. Since the 1920’s, cultured pearls have almost completely replaced natural pearls in the market. These saltwater cultured pearls are known within the industry as “akoya” pearls. Today we also have beautiful fresh-water cultured pearls, available in many sizes and colours. South Seas cultured pearls or “Tahitian” pearls tend to be somewhat larger (usually over 9mm), and command the highest prices in todays marketplace.
Alexandrite is a relatively modern gemstone, having been first discovered in Russia in 1831 during the reign of its namesake, Czar Alexander II. It is an extremely rare chrysoberyl with chameleon-like qualities. Its colour can be a lovely green in both daylight and fluorescent light; it changes to purplish-red in incandescent light. Although it was originally discovered in Russia, there have been some recent discoveries in Brazil.
Moonstone was given its name by the Roman natural historian Pliny, who wrote that moonstone’s appearance altered with the phases of the moon – a belief which lingered until well after the 16th century. A phenomenal gemstone, moonstones show a floating play of light (called adularescence) and may show either a multi-rayed star or a cat’s eye. Considered a sacred stone in India, they are believed to encapsulate within themselves a spirit whose purpose is to bring good fortune. As part of the family of minerals called feldspar, moonstone occurs in many igneous and metamorphic rocks and comes in a variety of colours. Moonstones are sourced in Sri Lanka, India, Australia, the U.S., Mayanmar, and Madagascar.
The birthstone for the month of May is emerald. It is also used to celebrate 20th and 35th anniversaries. Emerald is a symbol of rebirth, and it has been believed to grant its owner foresight, good fortune, and youth.
Emerald, derived from the word smaragdus, meaning green in Greek, was mined in Egypt as early as 330 B.C. Rumour had it that Nero gazed through a large emerald while Rome was burning.
Today, most of the world’s emeralds are mined in Columbia, Brazil, Afghanistan, and Zambia. The availablity of high-quality emerald is limited; consequently, treatments to improve clarity and colour are performed regularily. Most emeralds possess visible inclusions, called the jardin, French for gardens, named thus because of its resemblance to delicate foliage. And of course there are never two jardins alike. Should you be the owner of an emerald, it’s wise to be somewhat cautious while wearing it (especially in a ring), as abrasions, chips, and nicks can occur quite readily. So digging in a garden or playing volleyball on the beach while wearing your emerald ring would not be recommended.
Tom Chatham , during the 1950’s, was the early pioneer in synthesizing emeralds. Today, his son Tom heads the company known as Chatham Created Gems. They produce a variety of created gemstones, but are still best known for their “Chatham emeralds”. Stunningly beautiful at a fraction of the price – they would be a wonderful addition to any woman’s jewellery wardrobe.
Diamond is the birthstone for April. However, as we all know, many people who buy diamonds are not born in April. Diamonds have become the gemstone of choice for engagement rings, anniversary rings, pendants, earrings, bracelets, etc. It has, quite justifiably, become the king of gemstones.
Diamonds are the hardest substance known to humankind, and can only be cut and polished by other diamond material. Industrial-grade diamonds are used in drill-bits for drilling through hard materials. However, hardness does not equate to toughness. The former equates to resistance to scratching, whereas the latter equates to cohesion. In practical terms, this means that you cannot scratch a diamond except with another diamond, but if you hit it with a hammer, it will likely shatter.
Diamonds are sourced from many countries. Numerous African countries, Australia, Russia, and Canada are all major producers. In fact, Canada has become the number three producer of diamonds based upon value, behind only Botswana and Russia. The source of diamonds has become an issue in the past decade, as some diamonds being produced in Sierra Leone, Angola, and a few other African countries, were being used to fund illicit military activities. These diamonds became known as “conflict” or “blood” diamonds. And although they represented less than 2% of global production, it did become a serious issue to the trade. In response, producers, governments, manufacturers, ngo’s, and others came together to form what has become known as the “Kimberley” process. This proccess effectively curtailed the movement of conflict diamonds to the extent that, today, they are almost completely eliminated from global distribution.
Diamonds are valued based upon the four gemological characteristics known in the trade as the “four C’s”. Carat weight, colour, clarity, and cut quality, are the primary determining factors in establishing a diamond’s value. It is important therefore, when purchasing a diamond, that it have a certificate from a reputable lab, like the Gemological Institute of America or the American Gem Society. Alternatively, a description by an accredited gemologist will also help in making a “buy” decision.
Diamond prices in Canada today are actually somewhat lower than 5-10 years ago. Three reasons account for this. First, diamonds are globally priced in US dollars. Today, our dollar is flirting with parity, thereby giving us more buying power than when we had a 62 cent dollar. Secondly, since 1914, our industry was subject to an excise tax. It was archaic, but the only government to follow through on its promise to abolish the tax was the Harper government. This was accomplished in their first budget, thereby eliminating 10% from the cost of all jewellery. Thirdly, we cannot ignore the effects of the most recent recession. The jewellery industry was especially hard-hit. This resulted in an over-supply of diamonds to the trade, and the severe competition saw diamond prices drop as a result. Therefore, consumers today can effectively buy diamonds at a reduced price as compared to some years ago.
Diamond purchases represent significant events in the lives of the purchaser. Be it for that special birthday, the symbolism of an engagement, the marking of a milestone between two individuals, or the sheer joy of making a self-purchase, they remain one of the finest and long-lasting purchases one can make. As a company, we are privileged to be partakers in the brokering of these special events, and thank-you for allowing us into your lives in such an intimate manner.
This the first installment in our new series on monthly birthstones. Each month I will be writing about that particular month’s birthstone, some interesting lore behind it and their sources.
March actually has two birthstones, aquamarine and bloodstone. The former is the more popular. Its name is derived from the Latin word “aqua”, meaning water, and “marina”, meaning the sea. This gemstone was believed to protect sailors, as well as to guarantee a safe voyage. The serene colour of aquamarine is said to cool the temper, allowing the wearer to remain calm and level-headed. Its pale, cool colour beautifully complements spring and summer wardrobes. Aquamarine is most often light in tone and ranges from greenish blue to blue-green; the colour usually is more intense in larger gems. This gemstone is mined mainly in Brazil, but is also found in Nigeria, Madagascar, Zambia, Pakistan, and Mozambique.
 The second birthstone for March is bloodstone, a dark-green jasper flecked with vivid red spots of iron oxide. This ancient gem was used by the Babylonians to make seals and amulets and was believed to have healing powers – especially for blood disorders. It is sometimes called the “martyr’s stone” as legend tells that it was created when drops of Christ’s blood stained some jasper at the foot of the cross. Generally found embedded in rocks or in riverbeds as pebbles, primary sources for this gem are India, Brazil, and Australia.
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Birthstones | Ernest September 2, 2010 | 
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